Giolitti August 16
We did not eat gelato on our arrival day in Rome, but held off until the next day. We were in the Pantheon neighborhood, and walked over to
Giolitti . Wow! They've got a real operation going there. Line up to pay (which means choose what you want without even seeing the flavors. we chose 3 scoop sugar cones.), then take the receipt to line up for the gelato. Huge crowd. Flavors are in Italian, and we just weren't prepared. We may have done better if our first experience had been a smaller shop, with personal service. I didn't jot down what flavors I had, but I know it was a very good experience.
Verde Pistacchio August 17
In looking for a lunch place near our hotel, we were walking down Via Nazionale, and
Verde Pistacchio stood out. They've got a VW microbus inside the shop, body hold the flavors and driver compartment the cash register, and it's all done in an inviting pistacchio green color.
I thought about having a smoothie, rather than gelato, but thought better of it, and went with gelato. One of my flavors was pistachio (how could I not at a shop named thusly?). My other two flavor were mango and lemon. We ate our cones, and enjoyed the snappy decor.
Location is just down the street from Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri Church, which makes interesting use of the ruins of the Baths of Dioclesian in it's structure, and has an interesting dual-gnomon sundial inside.
Caffe delle Carrozze, August 18
The next day we were off for Florence by train. By mid-afternoon our wanderings had us near the Ponte Vecchio, where I saw an even higher density of jewelry stores than on 47th Street in Manhattan. There, waiting for us, was
Caffe delle Carrozze. I had melon, lemon, and mint, but wished they had a flavor which would have added to the wordplay of lemon/melon instead.
Gelateria dei Neri, August 19
Second day in Florence. We hit some key museums (thanks Firenze Card, for letting us skip the lines) and a short walk from the Galileo Museum is
Gelateria dei Neri. Their setup had two storefronts. One was the gelato, the other was a tables and a sitting area. They had a few chocolate-looking things. One reminded me of a delicious ice cream I had when visiting Tucson a couple years back, which was chocolate mixed with jalepenos. The "kick" of the peppers really set off the creaminess of the ice cream, and I enjoyed the lingering "burn" in my mouth the rest of the evening. In this case, the flavor was called cioccolato messicano pistacchio e peperoncino. The clerk warned me, "it's spicy!" I said that's okay. Then she gave me a small taste. I said that's okay. So she gave me my cone. Rounding out were passion fruit and mandarin orange. (note: just a bit to west of this spot is All'Antico Vinaio, a really great sandwich shop.)
Filo, August 20
Today we headed south of the Arno, looking for Pitti Palace, Boboli Gardens, and Bardini Gardens. The Firenze Card included free city transportation, so we hopped the D bus, which snakes around before finally stopping at Piazza Pitti. The plan was to hit all those gardens, and make our way to Michaelangelo's piazza, which was supposed to command some great views of Florence. But, on the way, we stopped at Forte Belvedere, which had it's own great views of Florence. So we stopped partway to Michaelangelo's right by one of the old city gates at a tiny shop called Il Gelato di Filo. (Google has it in the wrong spot, so I won't link their map). Wow! Best gelato of the entire trip. dark chocolate, mint (with no artificial coloring), and I forgot my third flavor. Highly recommended. If you've got the Firenze Card, hop any bus that loops over here, and get a free sightseeing tour on the way.
Piazza San Marco, August 21
Goodbye Florence, hello Venice. It was late, and we looked at a couple gelato places that didn't seem at all enticing. Finally, settled on one of the places facing Piazza San Marco. Nothing special. Completely forgettable.
Il Doge, August 22
Venice redeemed itself with
Il Doge. Yum. Peach, cherry, and coconut. It's so much fun wandering around Venice anyhow, but a nice gelato place as target makes it even more fun.
And that, ladies and gentlemen, is the story of my gelato tour.